zanoni and zanoni

Catherine and I have now eaten at Zanoni and Zanoni a couple of times since we've been here in Vienna. Z&Z serves superb ice cream. They have probably twenty flavors, including a lemon ice cream that's a masterwork: zippy, incisive lemon with a little bit of cloy, creamy creamy texture, a perfect aftertaste. Their Heidelbeere is good too — that's blueberry, fine-grained and only just sweet enough. We sit outside under the heated canopy and watch the city walk by on cobblestone streets, and live a life in every lick.

We also wonder why on earth other people don't make ice cream like this. The gourmet stuff you get elsewhere is either too icey or too creamy. Marble Slab ice cream is a globby Russian-style delight, but it achieves nothing like the exquisite balance of Z&Z. Is some secret recipe? Or is it simply a failure of nerve elsewhere? We've also applied this question to other areas of life in this beautiful town: why on earth wouldn't you build every new building to look like the ones we see here? Is it just that expensive these days? Certainly not: Trump tower could easily afford to look this beautiful, but doesn't. Meanwhile, molded concrete is molded concrete. You might as well mold it into a pleasing shape as into a blank box. Actually, this is something that Texas highway designers have somehow caught onto recently, with pleasant results. Why not catch it on all over?

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